A taste of paradise: exploring Sri Lanka through food

An island of flavour and spice, Sri Lanka is a tear-drop jewel set adrift within the Indian Ocean. From the rich seafood along the coast to the bold spices and curries of Jaffna, as you journey through this diverse landscape, be sure to savour the flavours as much as the views. Whether it’s the yellowfin tuna hauled from fishing boats each morning, a cup of Ceylon Tea from the mist-kissed hill country, or a bite of sweet, fragrant fruit from the market, you’ll soon find that Sri Lanka is as tasty as it is serene.

Eager to experience a slice of paradise? Let our curated guide to the island’s best foodie regions also be your passport to some of the best places to stay.

Lighthouse in Galle Fort on a sunny day in Sri Lanka, 1346277278

Galle fish markets

Nestled on the southwest coast of the island, Galle is a city made up of windswept shores, stone seawalls and a fortified Old Town. The region’s lighthouse looks wistfully out to sea whilst the Dutch Fort stands sentinel at the region’s edge. Wake early enough to see the soft light of dawn hit the cool sands, before heading east towards the harbour, where you’ll find local fisherman bringing their fresh morning catch to market. A few hours later, a riot of colour and noise appears, the salty tang of the sea still covering the iridescent gleam of the fish as locals and tourists alike haggle over the ocean’s bounty. Watch as everything from tuna, crab, swordfish, gar, and red and white snapper are laid out for the picking, ready to be transformed into culinary masterpieces that define the coastal cuisine of Sri Lanka.

What to try: Hot butter cuttlefish and crab kottu

Pettah Floating Markets, 1433774802

Colombo street food

Colombo is a colourful metropolis of ancient wonder and modern dynamism. On your way to the capital’s palm-fringed beaches, or lakeside temple of Gangaramaya, pick up a chocolate topped banana roti, and return the smiles of friendly youngsters in the street as they kick up red plumes of dust with their cricket bats. Later, when hunger reminds you to stop and eat, visit the bustling neighbourhood of Pettah for a sensory overload of sights, sounds, and flavours. Here, amidst the chaos, you’ll discover a hidden gem, and quintessential Sri Lankan experience: the floating market atop Beira Lake, where a picturesque tableau of colourful boats laden with fresh produce, artisanal crafts, and local delicacies awaits. Venture deeper into the city’s bobbing labyrinth and you’ll be rewarded with a mouthwatering array of street food. From the spicy kick of kottu roti to the delicate sweetness of hoppers, Colombo’s culinary scene is unlike anything you’ve seen or tasted before.

What to try: Kottu roti, hoppers and isso vade (prawn fritters)

Sri Lankan egg hopper, 543977960

Kandy – The Hill City

Begin your ascent into the heart of Sri Lanka, to Kandy, a city snaked by the ‘Great Sandy River’ (Mahaweli Ganga), and nestled in the cradle of ancient kings. Surrounded by lush rainforest and towering peaks, this historic and spiritual hub is the gateway to Sri Lanka’s enchanting hill country. Here, the Temple of the Sacred Tooth (Sri Dalada Maligawa) stands ready to receive visitors, the air is crisp, and the pace is slower, inviting you to immerse yourself in nature’s bounty. In the city’s centre, the aroma of freshly ground spices fills the air as locals open their restaurants for business. Indulge in traditional Sri Lankan cuisine, such as string hoppers with coconut sambol and warm sour pot curries, before washing it down with a perfectly brewed cup of Ceylon Tea. Watch as workers in the fields receive Kuruni baskets filled with home-cooked delicacies wrapped in banana leaves, and as the sun begins its descent, witness the ancient spectacle of a captivating Kandyan dance performance.

What to try: Sour pot curry (ambul thiyal), string hoppers with coconut sambol

Tea plantation hills on a misty morning in Sri Lanka, 1205011055

Nuwara Eliya tea plantations

If the rolling green tea fields of Ella leave you in awe, the enchanting plantations of Nuwara Eliya will quite literally take you to new heights. With a total elevation of 6,199 feet above sea level, this part of the hill country feels like stepping into another world entirely. Leave the bustling markets and humidity below, as you take in the cool mists of Sri Lanka’s highlands, and begin to explore a landscape cloaked by a patchwork of emerald green. A producer of tea since the 1870s, you can tour a number of the factories in Nuwara Eliya, before having the chance to take home a box of orange pekoe or the famous Ceylon Black Tea. The architecture here continues to whisper of a bygone era, and as you sample a freshly brewed cup from one of the local towns, you’ll find that the history of this unique corner of the world is an intriguing tale.

What to try: Orange pekoe and Ceylon Black Tea

Bananas at Sri Lanka’s Dambulla Fruit Market, 550859209

The Dambulla fruit markets

Not far from the UNESCO World Heritage Sites of the Sigiriya Lion Rock Fortress and the first century BC Dambulla cave temple, the bustling town of Dambulla is home to the island’s largest wholesale fruit and vegetable market. Abound each morning with fragrant aromas and colourful produce, locals and tourists alike gather to explore the warren of bustling stalls. From freshly cut bunches of bananas, juicy mangos, and displays laden with ruby red rambutans, deep purple mangosteens, and king coconuts from the coconut triangle, the market offers a glimpse into the island’s rich agricultural heritage. Grab a box for the road, before heading off in the direction of Kandalama Reservoir to enjoy the shimmering lakeside scenery and distant views of Sigiriya.

What to try: Rambutans, mangosteens and a refreshing sip of coconut milk straight from the shell

Nallur Kandaswamy Kovil Hindu temple in Jaffna, Sri Lanka, 1208377642

Jaffna spice centre

Head to Sri Lanka’s northern point and you’ll encounter the fragrant spices and rich cultural heritage of Jaffna. As a coastal city you’ll naturally find the fiery flavours of the famous nandu kuzhambu (Jaffna crab curry), while the region’s Hindu influences also means there’s a wide variety of vegetarian dishes made with locally grown vegetables, legumes, and lentils. There’s also a host of beautiful local temples to visit, and those with a sweet tooth can always end the day with an array of traditional sweets made from jaggery. As the sun dips low, casting long shadows across the ancient Jaffna peninsula, savour the bold flavours of the local cuisine, its fiery kiss a testament to this land’s unforgettable spirit.

What to try: Jaffna crab curry and jaggery desserts like watalappan